Sorry Hanzibal
I can't see anything that could be the cause of this problem, that hasn't been mentioned already.
Did you check ALL your ground pins have good contact with ground?
Here is an oscillator that looks similar to yours
My link
The only other thing I can think of is can you move the components on your breadboard to get a similar behaviour? This again would be a lot of effort for little chance of success.
Magpie's Content
There have been 156 items by Magpie (Search limited from 28-April 23)
#28264 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 28 April 2012 - 02:06 PM
in
Project Showcase
#28260 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 28 April 2012 - 11:40 AM
in
Project Showcase
It seems that spotify can't licence in Australia at the moment. The music powers that be dont want any competition.
#28258 Powerful Aquarium Lighting
Posted by
on 28 April 2012 - 10:47 AM
in
General Discussion
Hi
Here's some info
cap 4.7uF 50volt ceramic mount close to pins C3216Y5V1H475Z
33uh inductor resonant freq > 3 Mhz, low series resistance < 100mOhms, shielded or toroid, min 2.5 amps
murata 32330C or wurth 744770133, I must admit I like the toroids as you feel the weight of them, you mean business.
somehow get down to 290mOhms, it might be cheaper to parrallel up about 4x 1.0 and 1.something resistors. use 1% tolerance cost effective.
definitely use at least 2x parallel resistors for flexibility and accuracy. Total power rating of each the resistors should be met by a factor of at least 4 just so they don't run too hot. Watts = (180mV ^2) / R.
the diode can be 5819 rated at 40-60 volts but there are many others including
MBRS340 which is 3 amps 40 volts, don't go higher than 60 volts you will lose somewhere else.
Rt just needs to be a standard 1% resistor, I haven't done the calcs , try 50k, 100K or 200K . low power is fine.
30 x 0.1uf or should this be 2uf? caps (please can you provide specific characteristics thats what I really am terrible at)
I seem to remember some ambiguity in the datasheet here but I can only see the 2uF now. So use that.
I think I used .22uF, don't ask me why, and it failed.
As usual ceramic, very close to pins and say 25-50 volts.
If I have forgotten something just tell me.
Good luck.
I am wait on my replacement NCL30160s, but I have the rest of the shield going okay, which is only the step down power supply, powering an arduino. ( Lower cost of failure)
#28243 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 28 April 2012 - 01:56 AM
in
Project Showcase
Good to hear that it can play a whole album now.
The good thing is that it's been a good learning experience for you and also for me.
My experience with crystals is still basically zero, just put them in and dont worry about them. So I will be interested if you do finally work out what is going on.
Bear in mind my scant knowledge of crystals when you read the following.
One thing that seems strange is shouldn't the crystals dc offset be about half of the logic voltage?
I am just saying this because I thought I read it somewhere and if you look at the block diagram, one pin is connected to a logic gate output, so you would think that it has a square wave on it.
You said it was 3V on a logic level of 3.3.
#28202 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 27 April 2012 - 12:59 PM
in
Project Showcase
Hey Hanzibal
I noticed that there is an evaluation board for this chip.
There is a photo and it's seems similar to yours. over at TI.
But you can't download the datasheet for the eval board. Which is a problem.
#28194 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 27 April 2012 - 09:11 AM
in
Project Showcase
Wish I had a storage cro, maybe next year.
re: Changing power modes
I can see your point, it would be a significant hassle and little chance of reward.
#28176 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 27 April 2012 - 01:06 AM
in
Project Showcase
No worries,
I guess one other thing you could try is contact Texas support directly.
They may be able to spot the problem in 5 minutes.
If you can be bothered it would be interesting to see if the chip works better in self powered mode.
I was thinking that you would have a local supply anyway because of the power amp.
#28144 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 26 April 2012 - 02:52 PM
in
Project Showcase
Hi Hanzibal
I looked at the schematic and I was wondering why you're running in Bus powered mode.
Or is it bus powered mode unless the jack is plugged in?
Have you tried it in Self Powered mode?
Have you derived your circuit from fig 32?
I looked at the schematic and I was wondering why you're running in Bus powered mode.
Or is it bus powered mode unless the jack is plugged in?
Have you tried it in Self Powered mode?
Have you derived your circuit from fig 32?
Typical Circuit Connection 1 (Example of USB Speaker)
Figure 32 illustrates a typical circuit connection for an internal-descriptor, bus-powered, 500-mA application.
#28109 Powerful Aquarium Lighting
Posted by
on 26 April 2012 - 12:34 AM
in
General Discussion
I guess you need to say are you making this on vero board or designing your own pcb?
If you go veroboard then you need mostly through hole components.
if you go pcb then surface mount is a good option.
Last night I put together some of my Steffshield project, and I must say it looks really good on the pcb, but I have at least 4 errors but luckily no showstoppers.
I have a pile of things going on right now, but I will give you part numbers for the bits you want.
Remember to give the tracks between high current components short paths, NCL, diode, inductor, sense resistor.
caps need to be right next to the pins.
TVS needs to be betwen the ground and Vin on the only path before the Vin Cap, with very short leads.
Leave room for 2 resistors here, so you can use parallel to tweak the current.
When i get the chance I will draw something. (within a couple of days)
If you go veroboard then you need mostly through hole components.
if you go pcb then surface mount is a good option.
Last night I put together some of my Steffshield project, and I must say it looks really good on the pcb, but I have at least 4 errors but luckily no showstoppers.
I have a pile of things going on right now, but I will give you part numbers for the bits you want.
Remember to give the tracks between high current components short paths, NCL, diode, inductor, sense resistor.
caps need to be right next to the pins.
TVS needs to be betwen the ground and Vin on the only path before the Vin Cap, with very short leads.
= 285 milliohms, better get a new calc.Rsense = 200mv/700ma = 290ohms
Leave room for 2 resistors here, so you can use parallel to tweak the current.
When i get the chance I will draw something. (within a couple of days)
#28012 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 24 April 2012 - 01:31 PM
in
Project Showcase
I think were back to Shrodingers Cat,
Got to go now, I think I am also at the bottom of the ideas barrel.
#28010 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 24 April 2012 - 01:23 PM
in
Project Showcase
Did you read to the bottom of the thread? It said the datasheet was right and the tying of the output was wrong.
I guess the other thing, is did you try different pcs, usb cables, usb hubs, operating systems?
#28004 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 24 April 2012 - 01:05 PM
in
Project Showcase
Actually just hold off on the tying the pin suggestion.
READ TO THE BOTTOM OF THE THREAD FIRST.
like I should have.
#28002 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 24 April 2012 - 12:58 PM
in
Project Showcase
Hi Hanzibal
I'm hoping this is relevant, I checked the forums on your chip and people are talking about tying the output suspend pin high.
part way down page.
In the datasheet reference design it isn't tied high, and I think some people said it might be an error in the datasheet.
worth a try?
I'm hoping this is relevant, I checked the forums on your chip and people are talking about tying the output suspend pin high.
part way down page.
In the datasheet reference design it isn't tied high, and I think some people said it might be an error in the datasheet.
worth a try?
#28000 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 24 April 2012 - 12:24 PM
in
Project Showcase
I guess one thing you can verify, is the relationship between uptime and resttime, as you said this is very odd.
If you can say that "without doubt" uptime has some repeatable relation with the previous resttime then this should give us a real clue.
if you can keep a full record of your projects failure times etc you might see something new.
After a switch off is there some pin that holds its charge some how and you can measure it going down very slowly?
The other thing I would be interested to know is do you have two of the new boards with the same symptoms?
#27976 Powerful Aquarium Lighting
Posted by
on 23 April 2012 - 11:28 PM
in
General Discussion
Hi
Glad it is going well.
The good news for me is my NCL30160 boards finally arrived, so I may as well power them up.
I am going to do it at 24 volts and put Transient suppressor diodes on the inputs for a bit of protection.
I will let you know how it goes.
OnSemi assured me they tested the chips and said it was probably overheating.
If you look at the photo I posted on the SteffShield thread you will have to agree with them.
But as it is decision time for you, I will give you some thoughts becasue as you know proscrastination is the enemy of success.
I would go 12 volts per channel and use a mains down to 12v supply. This means you can add extra power to any channel if you need it, but you will need the single inductor per channel.
I like the meanwell supplies and I would get one that is highly efficient, this doesn't mean super expensive. ie. higher than 90% at rated current. Try a recent model of the meanwell ones.
The one in you picture looks ok but you really cant tell from a picture.
Work in watts and then at the last minute divide it into amps.
Add other power requirements and led requirements.
the leds will be say 30 x 3 watts = 90 watts
other stuff say 50 watts???
= 140 watts
add some spare capacity and you have say 250-350 watts.
divide by volts and you have say 25 amps.
so that is a fairly hefty supply.
ps. I know this sounds like a computer psu but they aren't very efficient.
you can probably add extra amps later if you really need to.
Also you need anti static wriststrap connected to earth to use the NCLs and dont take them out of the silver bag until you have your wrist strap on.
I tried a value of 33uH for the inductor, use surface mount for the diodes and caps so you can put them really close to the pins.
In order of component closeness to the chip
1. caps ceramic (smd, if possible)
2 diode
3 inductor
4 resistors
5 caps electrolytics if any
the other thing I have found is that I am using the new Cree XTE leds now, at around 2 bucks each without the aluminium backing.
Last night I sent off a design for my own mcpcb, to mount them, this should cut costs a lot.
They are rated to be very similar in performance to the XPG but 1/3 the cost. so I bought a 100 of them.
No worries about helping, good luck, I just hope you have better luck with the chips than I did. (Luck? It may have been incompetance)
Glad it is going well.
The good news for me is my NCL30160 boards finally arrived, so I may as well power them up.
I am going to do it at 24 volts and put Transient suppressor diodes on the inputs for a bit of protection.
I will let you know how it goes.
OnSemi assured me they tested the chips and said it was probably overheating.
If you look at the photo I posted on the SteffShield thread you will have to agree with them.
But as it is decision time for you, I will give you some thoughts becasue as you know proscrastination is the enemy of success.
I would go 12 volts per channel and use a mains down to 12v supply. This means you can add extra power to any channel if you need it, but you will need the single inductor per channel.
I like the meanwell supplies and I would get one that is highly efficient, this doesn't mean super expensive. ie. higher than 90% at rated current. Try a recent model of the meanwell ones.
The one in you picture looks ok but you really cant tell from a picture.
As far as Amps go .What other parts do I need and what adjustments need to be made in terms of the power supply?
Work in watts and then at the last minute divide it into amps.
Add other power requirements and led requirements.
the leds will be say 30 x 3 watts = 90 watts
other stuff say 50 watts???
= 140 watts
add some spare capacity and you have say 250-350 watts.
divide by volts and you have say 25 amps.
so that is a fairly hefty supply.
ps. I know this sounds like a computer psu but they aren't very efficient.
you can probably add extra amps later if you really need to.
the NCLs with the inductors in the standard circuit will limit the current and the voltage to appropiate levels.So do you think this is powerful enough for the 30 channels if we base on 30 Cree xp-e 3watts leds? Or would you suggest a high voltage perhaps 12v? I'm just mindful about you saying the NCLs operate better with lower voltages and that I will just be wasting power with high voltages as my leds only need upto about 3.5v max.
just a pullup resistor. the tlcs need to put out a square wave <= 20khz, I assume they can do this. you better check.Finally what additional parts will I need to take in to account the PWM from the open drain of the TLCs?
Just need the standard NCL circuit, running at 12v and definately use a nearby TVS diode with an nominal operating voltage of 12-24v and a let through voltage of 27-32 volts. like this SMA6J24A-TRAlso do I need any current limiting circuits and if so what parts would I need?
Also you need anti static wriststrap connected to earth to use the NCLs and dont take them out of the silver bag until you have your wrist strap on.
I tried a value of 33uH for the inductor, use surface mount for the diodes and caps so you can put them really close to the pins.
In order of component closeness to the chip
1. caps ceramic (smd, if possible)
2 diode
3 inductor
4 resistors
5 caps electrolytics if any
the other thing I have found is that I am using the new Cree XTE leds now, at around 2 bucks each without the aluminium backing.
Last night I sent off a design for my own mcpcb, to mount them, this should cut costs a lot.
They are rated to be very similar in performance to the XPG but 1/3 the cost. so I bought a 100 of them.
No worries about helping, good luck, I just hope you have better luck with the chips than I did. (Luck? It may have been incompetance)
#27921 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 23 April 2012 - 05:25 AM
in
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ps. My boards arrived today, now I have to reorder my chips. Then I can see If I have a dead cat.
#27919 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 23 April 2012 - 03:57 AM
in
Project Showcase
Hi Hanzibal
There is a lot of stuff here that I am not very experienced in but ignore that and I will try to give you some extra ideas.
It seems the crystal is ok. If you cant actually get to the clock pulse because it's internal to the chip and the crystal looks good, what else can you do but assume it is good.
I am not sure your decoupling circuitry is correct, but it is hard to see from the photos.
both C5 and C7 according to the reference design should have a 1uF ceramic in parrallel to a 10uF electro. the ceramic should be as close as possible to the pins.
all other ceramics should probably be the very close to their pins as well.
Are they ceramic? some have that baby shit brown colour that they use on tantalum caps.
I guess the standard approach is to debugging digital circuits is.
Lastly what I often find is a good way to solve problems that are complicated, is to
start with something that is working and keep adding to it until you add the thing that breaks the system,
this works better than starting with something that isn't working and trying to work backwards.
In your case, did you have a breadboard that does work? does it still work? What is different?
Think to yourself this is where I earn my money. (while you look for needles in a haystack.)
The other obvious place for the problem is in software.
By the way how does it stop working, does the usb driver stop talking?<br><br>
There is a lot of stuff here that I am not very experienced in but ignore that and I will try to give you some extra ideas.
It seems the crystal is ok. If you cant actually get to the clock pulse because it's internal to the chip and the crystal looks good, what else can you do but assume it is good.
I am not sure your decoupling circuitry is correct, but it is hard to see from the photos.
both C5 and C7 according to the reference design should have a 1uF ceramic in parrallel to a 10uF electro. the ceramic should be as close as possible to the pins.
all other ceramics should probably be the very close to their pins as well.
Are they ceramic? some have that baby shit brown colour that they use on tantalum caps.
I guess the standard approach is to debugging digital circuits is.
- Check all grounds. (Voltages)
- Check all power.
- check clock (it seems to be entirely internal, so check crystal which you have done.)
- check all inputs for irregularity, such as indeterminate logic states, unexpected noise or waveforms, and if you can check the expected logic state is there.
Lastly what I often find is a good way to solve problems that are complicated, is to
start with something that is working and keep adding to it until you add the thing that breaks the system,
this works better than starting with something that isn't working and trying to work backwards.
In your case, did you have a breadboard that does work? does it still work? What is different?
Think to yourself this is where I earn my money. (while you look for needles in a haystack.)
The other obvious place for the problem is in software.
By the way how does it stop working, does the usb driver stop talking?<br><br>
#27875 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 22 April 2012 - 08:24 AM
in
Project Showcase
I hope that's it, but it's still a bit strange how it would work for an hour though.
#27860 Powerful Aquarium Lighting
Posted by
on 22 April 2012 - 12:55 AM
in
General Discussion
There is no way I would go from mains to led. you would have to do it for each channel.
Better to bring it down to some lowish dc voltage and use a led driver for each channel from there.
I was talking on another forum about my troubles with the NCL30160 and a couple of things were suggested.
1. run at a lower voltage ie. 12 or 24 even though the chip is rated at 40V
2. use a transient suppression diode across the vin. one that suppresses at a voltage just above the vin you want to use.
3. bread boarding high frequency power circuits is fraught with difficulty, and could have been the cause of some of the problems
Also I said before you may get away without the inductors but I think you need them unless your nominal led string voltage is near your maximum dc voltage.
eg. 3 leds at 3 volts = 9 volts running from 12v probably doesn't need the inductor.
but 1 led at 3 volts = 3 volts running from 12v probably does need the inductor because the instantaneous voltage across the led may cause a large instantaneous current that is too much for the led.
Better to bring it down to some lowish dc voltage and use a led driver for each channel from there.
I was talking on another forum about my troubles with the NCL30160 and a couple of things were suggested.
1. run at a lower voltage ie. 12 or 24 even though the chip is rated at 40V
2. use a transient suppression diode across the vin. one that suppresses at a voltage just above the vin you want to use.
3. bread boarding high frequency power circuits is fraught with difficulty, and could have been the cause of some of the problems
Also I said before you may get away without the inductors but I think you need them unless your nominal led string voltage is near your maximum dc voltage.
eg. 3 leds at 3 volts = 9 volts running from 12v probably doesn't need the inductor.
but 1 led at 3 volts = 3 volts running from 12v probably does need the inductor because the instantaneous voltage across the led may cause a large instantaneous current that is too much for the led.
#27859 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 22 April 2012 - 12:25 AM
in
Project Showcase
Maybe just power it up when there is a lightning storm.
On the good side, it sounds like you haven't damaged any hardware.
It's not a software issue is it? Reboot fixes it? probably not but worth asking.
Have you got an oscilloscope?
With what you said about the oscillator, checking the clock would be a good place to start.
You could also check all the pins to look for invalid inputs.
Do you have a schematic? And a pcb file I could look at?
#27706 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 20 April 2012 - 11:42 AM
in
Project Showcase
At least you believe your board exists, mine must be in some sort of quantum state.
#27629 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 19 April 2012 - 08:35 AM
in
Project Showcase
Oh well
Look on the bright side, your still doing better than me.
Olimex apparently posted me my boards a month ago, and I still haven't got them.
and I've blown up all my chips in the meantime.
#27450 USB Audio Device - FINALLY WORKS!!
Posted by
on 17 April 2012 - 12:20 PM
in
Project Showcase
After a while, the usb chip seem to get hot, no magic smoke but it smells
That's no good.
I know almost nothing about your schematic and I know you probably already know this stuff, but I will throw in my 20 cents anyway just in case there is something that could help.
It sounds like a short somewhere, hopefully not in one of the main chips.
Assuming your circuit design is good.
You can short pins with static.
Or maybe its in the pcb
or your soldering is probably crap (just kidding).
Do you have a current limited voltage supply?
If it is a short you can turn it on at a lower than normal voltage, so you get some abnormal current, say 300mA, but just enough so nothing new is cooked.
And if you have an accurate multimeter you can trace millivolts to find where the short is.
Good luck, (I'm also giving you a bit of moral support just in case the above doesn't help.)
#27303 My Paranormal Investigation Tool(s) Project
Posted by
on 15 April 2012 - 02:36 PM
in
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#26779 Powerful Aquarium Lighting
Posted by
on 09 April 2012 - 02:15 PM
in
General Discussion
I am thinking for your purposes, you can get away without current sensing.
You just need over current protection.
This will give you
less losses
very simple circuit
excellent linearity, good for colour.
but at a cost of
fair bit of software fiddling if you change the leds per circuit, or supply voltage, if this is the case you will have to reset the max pwm
you will need fuses too, to protect your leds. make sure the fuses blow before the leds.
Have you worked out how many channels of how many leds?
Is it 32 channels of 1 led?
For the single led channels I don't think I would bother getting an inductor either.
just something like.
For my purposes ( domestic lighting 10 leds in series) I am going to rejig the Attiny461a, finish, improve the code, and choose the best transistors, and fet.
Maybe even go synchronous.
You just need over current protection.
This will give you
less losses
very simple circuit
excellent linearity, good for colour.
but at a cost of
fair bit of software fiddling if you change the leds per circuit, or supply voltage, if this is the case you will have to reset the max pwm
you will need fuses too, to protect your leds. make sure the fuses blow before the leds.
Have you worked out how many channels of how many leds?
Is it 32 channels of 1 led?
For the single led channels I don't think I would bother getting an inductor either.
just something like.
tlc -> PMD3001D -> nfet gate.(logic level fet, or maybe STN3NF06L)
and VCC - fuse - leds - nfet drain and nfet source to ground.
or VCC - fuse - leds - inductor - nfet drain and nfet source to ground.
| |
|--- diode --------|
Obviously prototype first.For my purposes ( domestic lighting 10 leds in series) I am going to rejig the Attiny461a, finish, improve the code, and choose the best transistors, and fet.
Maybe even go synchronous.
