Use a PWM. You can then control the brightness by changing the duty cycle (duration). I would reference the articles in this forum but you can't search for PWM or LED because of the search rules

Not a shield but I need it so some one else may need one as well http://www.sparkfun....products_id=133, RS232 shifter. It converts from digital to RS232 sufficiently to work with a PC. Just don't forget to use 3.3 Vdc for VCC or you could spend a whole afternoon troubleshoot the hardware ( I wonder how he knew that? )

Well when it comes to prototype shields, there is not much that can go wrong, but thought I would add this one anyway. NKC Electronics has http://www.nkcelectr...hield-kit.html. The only caveat is that you don't want to install the 6-Pin ICSP pass thru. Itdoesn't work with the Netduino anyway since it's not populated

Add the following Wiz5100 ethernet shield http://www.seeedstud...l?cPath=101_102 also available from http://www.nkcelectr...eeedstudio.html Like the latest Arduino Ethernet shield it requires an ISPC connection. Sorry about that, I found the schematic and it will work without the ISPC. There are three zero ohm resister used as jumpers that just have to be moved to convert from ISP to DI MOSI. Duh!

The problem is that when a pwm period and duration are the same the output is high. Period is the rising edge to rising edge time of the output wave form. While duration is the length of the high time of the period. So period should be 1/frequency and duration should be (duty_cycle * period) where duty cycle is some value < 1. Also if I remember correctly, period is in microseconds so:

Try

  var period = (uint)(1000000 / frequency); 
  pwm.SetPulse(period, period/2); 
 

I used the same buzzer and I just checked my code and the period is in microseconds like I remembered.

As soon as I get the all-clear from our users that the new AnalogInput code in the v4.1.0.2 firmware patch is working well for them... It tested out well here, but I'm being extra cautious before I post a tutorial.

The tutorial should work well with the original firmware as well (since the patch only addresses using multiple AnalogInputs at once).

Chris

The new version is working for me so far. I am using it with the SparkFun Joystick shield. http://www.sparkfun....oducts_id=9760. This is the one I was having problems with on Sat.
Thanks for the update!

My guess: CadSoft Eagle (?)

Yep, I use Cadsoft Eagle. But don't ask me for help with it. I am just returning to doing hardware after 40 years and am trying to catch up.I just kindof hack away with Eagle until something works.

Thank you for explaining now i understand. Time to play with my netduino!

The fun is just begining
The next thing you want to do is check out the projects page.

I just got my netduino and I'm starting to try to get analog input and I always get 0 when I read my pin(A0). Do you see anything I did wrong?

My setup looks like this

3.3->AREF

A0->Photo Resistor->GND

public class Program
    {
        public static void Main()
        {
            // write your code here
            InterruptPort tester = new InterruptPort(Pins.GPIO_PIN_A0, false, Port.ResistorMode.Disabled, Port.InterruptMode.InterruptEdgeBoth);
            tester.Dispose();

            AnalogInput apin0 = new AnalogInput(Pins.GPIO_PIN_A0);
            apin0.SetRange(0, 100);

            int test = 0;
            while (true)
            {
                Thread.Sleep(250);
                test = apin0.Read();
                Debug.Print("Test: " + test);
            }

        }

    }

You would need another resister to 3.3Vdc to develop a voltage divider. There is no pull-up in the An-in.

I'm confused would it look like
AREF+3.3v->resistor(what resistance?)->ground?->photo resistor->A0?

First you need to know what the resistance of the photo resister is. Mine was 25k full dark.
Second you need to decide if you want it to pull-up or pull-down. I used mine in a pull-up.
Then choose a resitance to give you some kind of reasonable current limit, I chose 10K since I just wanted to play.
So using the attached schematic, I put the photoresister in a R1, a 10k in R2, you can try it either way and pick the one you like.