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Etched my first shield PCB...


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#1 bill.french

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 05:52 AM

Starting with Fritzing and using the toner transfer method, I've gotten my sous vide project a lot more physically solid on its own PCB. I've also added some headers for an LCD screen and buttons for the future.

In case it inspires someone to try etching their own boards, here are some pics:

1. Breadboard in Fritzing:
Posted Image

2. PCB in Fritzing:
Posted Image

3. PCB with toner, pre-etching, with some sharpie touch-ups (this is actually an older layout, but I forgot to take pics of the new layout)
Posted Image

4. Etched and tinned:
Posted Image

5. IC Side of the board:
Posted Image

#2 Chris Walker

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 06:26 AM

Nice!

#3 Omar (OZ)

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 06:34 AM

WHOAAAA thats so cool.... see I tried this and failed! Paper transfer was a fail. I'd love to hear more about your own experience when trying this (I think is a tricky) method.

#4 bill.french

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 02:00 PM

I've done it several times, I've been surprised with how easy it is, actually, almost like magic. There's usually some issue with the traces, but a sharpie can correct it. If the toner transfer is too "rough" to correct, you can just clean it off and do it again. Acetone for cleaning never worked for me (maybe my wife's acetone is not actually acetone?), so I use Brakleen which should be available at walmart or any autoparts store.

PulsarProfix has lots of information, as well as some special paper i would love to try, as removing the paper seems to be the most problematic for me.

This site: http://www.riccibitti.com/pcb/pcb.htm probably is the closest to what I actually did.

#5 GDSever

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 03:18 PM

I tried to use the toner transfer method and wasn't ever happy with the quality of the resulting traces, so I switched to the resist-etch positive exposure method. Yeah, the boards are more expensive, but the process itself isn't much more involved and I could get finer traces. I still use the toner-transfer method for applying a "silkscreen" to the top side though.

#6 bill.french

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 03:30 PM

I switched to the resist-etch positive exposure method.


Any links you've found useful? Sources on the boards you like?

#7 GDSever

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 03:55 PM

Yeah, I had a bunch of links - Let me see if I can dig them out and I'll post them here later today. It does require another chemical (the developer), which is just Sodium Hydroxide I think... but it's not too hard to come by. As soon as I get my info together I'll post it back here.

#8 GDSever

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 04:32 PM

http://fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm

Where I started when trying the toner-transfer stuff. My biggest problem is I don't have a laser jet at home, so I had to print them at work, bring them home, try out the process, and hope I didn't mess them up. The iteration process got very tedious and annoying, so I looked for a way I could use my inkjet instead - another reason for me switching to the photo-resist method.

http://www.ladyada.n...nhouseetch.html

Great site and vendor, good info on photo-resist PCB process. It's pretty much how I do it, except I don't use the thousand-dollar equipment. Looks like she uses tracing paper - I actually purchased transparency sheets that work with my inkjet. I lay the transparency ontop of the board with a clear piece of picture glass ontop to hold it flat, and use standard fluorescent lights (not UV) about 6" above the board for a few minutes to expose them.

http://www.electrics...co.uk/pcbs.html - Few pictures, but good info.
http://www.circuitsp...itml/icOid/3802 - Where I last bought my presensitized PCBs
http://www.newark.com - Where I buy most things these days

#9 Charles

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 05:16 PM

http://fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm

Where I started when trying the toner-transfer stuff. My biggest problem is I don't have a laser jet at home, so I had to print them at work, bring them home, try out the process, and hope I didn't mess them up. The iteration process got very tedious and annoying, so I looked for a way I could use my inkjet instead - another reason for me switching to the photo-resist method.

http://www.ladyada.n...nhouseetch.html

Great site and vendor, good info on photo-resist PCB process. It's pretty much how I do it, except I don't use the thousand-dollar equipment. Looks like she uses tracing paper - I actually purchased transparency sheets that work with my inkjet. I lay the transparency ontop of the board with a clear piece of picture glass ontop to hold it flat, and use standard fluorescent lights (not UV) about 6" above the board for a few minutes to expose them.

http://www.electrics...co.uk/pcbs.html - Few pictures, but good info.
http://www.circuitsp...itml/icOid/3802 - Where I last bought my presensitized PCBs
http://www.newark.com - Where I buy most things these days



On the one hand, that looks like a great process, on the other it looks like a real pain. Most of us don't have the fancy tools described on the site.

#10 GDSever

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 05:29 PM

On the one hand, that looks like a great process, on the other it looks like a real pain. Most of us don't have the fancy tools described on the site.

You don't need all that equipment. I certainly don't have it, and my PCBs turned out great.

For printing you just need a printer (inkjet or laser) and a semi-transparent or transparent sheet to print it on.
For exposing you just need pre-sensitized PCBs and a fluorescent lamp
For developing you need a plastic tray, developer (NaOH), disposable latex gloves and maybe a soft foam brush.
For etching (and everything beyond that) you need the same stuff you would for the toner transfer method.

It's not any more or less a pain (IMO) than sitting with an iron trying to get toner to stick to copper clad boards, and the extra "equipment" would cost you under $20, if you didn't already have it sitting around the house.

Next time I etch a board I'll try to take some pictures and document the process. It's really not hard.

#11 Charles

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 06:12 PM

You don't need all that equipment. I certainly don't have it, and my PCBs turned out great.

For printing you just need a printer (inkjet or laser) and a semi-transparent or transparent sheet to print it on.
For exposing you just need pre-sensitized PCBs and a fluorescent lamp
For developing you need a plastic tray, developer (NaOH), disposable latex gloves and maybe a soft foam brush.
For etching (and everything beyond that) you need the same stuff you would for the toner transfer method.

It's not any more or less a pain (IMO) than sitting with an iron trying to get toner to stick to copper clad boards, and the extra "equipment" would cost you under $20, if you didn't already have it sitting around the house.

Next time I etch a board I'll try to take some pictures and document the process. It's really not hard.


That would be great! The second web site in your post just made it look very complicated...

#12 beetlegeuce

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 09:50 PM

Starting with Fritzing and using the toner transfer method, I've gotten my sous vide project a lot more physically solid on its own PCB. I've also added some headers for an LCD screen and buttons for the future.

In case it inspires someone to try etching their own boards, here are some pics:

1. Breadboard in Fritzing:
Posted Image

2. PCB in Fritzing:
Posted Image

3. PCB with toner, pre-etching, with some sharpie touch-ups (this is actually an older layout, but I forgot to take pics of the new layout)
Posted Image

4. Etched and tinned:
Posted Image

5. IC Side of the board:
Posted Image


Hi there - first post shocker as I move away from lurking in the shadows.

A regular Newb-duino here. Do you still have the images for this project? Would be intriqued to see your progression.

J




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