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Shield Compatibility Inquiry


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9 replies to this topic

#1 Derek

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Posted 14 August 2010 - 04:49 AM

I bought this: http://www.makershed...oductCode=MKSP8 along with my awesome new Netduino. The Netduino works fine until I plug in the shield, at which point I am unable to transfer any assemblies via VS2010. As soon as I remove the shield, things return to normal. Any ideas? I'm more than willing to modify the shield in order to get it to work...

#2 Chris Walker

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Posted 14 August 2010 - 02:35 PM

Hi Derek, Welcome to the community! Is anything plugged into the shield when you plug the shield into your Netduino? Do you know if the shield is 3.3V compatible? Many shields are designed to work with both 3.3V devices (like Netduino) but some only work with 5V devices. I looked on a few websites, including the manufacturer's website, and didn't see any schematics; do you have a link we could take a look at? Chris

#3 greg

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 11:41 AM

Hi Derek,

Welcome to the community!

Is anything plugged into the shield when you plug the shield into your Netduino?

Do you know if the shield is 3.3V compatible? Many shields are designed to work with both 3.3V devices (like Netduino) but some only work with 5V devices.

I looked on a few websites, including the manufacturer's website, and didn't see any schematics; do you have a link we could take a look at?

Chris


I actually emailed Seeed Studio about it and got this back:

Hi Greg,

Electronic Brick Chassis v1.1 can pull 5v or 3.3v.

Thank you!
SQX


So it looks like it's not the voltage. I forgot to ask for a schematic. Silly me.

#4 Chris Walker

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 03:04 PM

Hi greg, can you get a schematic for the board? Netduino can supply both 5V and 3.3V -- but the big question is what are they feeding back and to where... Chris

#5 greg

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 03:23 PM

Hi greg, can you get a schematic for the board?

Netduino can supply both 5V and 3.3V -- but the big question is what are they feeding back and to where...

Chris


I emailed them back this morning asking for a schematic. They are based in China so we'll see when I get a reply. They were pretty quick on my first request.

#6 Derek

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 05:40 PM

Hi Guys, thanks for the coop! This is as close as I could get to a schematic: http://www.robotshop...1-elb138e1p.pdf Page 4, Electronic Brick Chassis. I believe I was using D8 and D9, with a momentary switch and an LED brick on each, respectively. I'm sorry, I didn't do quite as thorough a debug job as I am capable of. My electronics skills are limited as of yet and the last thing I want to do is start my embedded micro journey by shorting my board.

#7 greg

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 12:18 PM

Hi Guys, thanks for the coop!

This is as close as I could get to a schematic:

http://www.robotshop...1-elb138e1p.pdf

Page 4, Electronic Brick Chassis.

I believe I was using D8 and D9, with a momentary switch and an LED brick on each, respectively.

I'm sorry, I didn't do quite as thorough a debug job as I am capable of. My electronics skills are limited as of yet and the last thing I want to do is start my embedded micro journey by shorting my board.


Got the schematics from them. Attached.

Attached Files



#8 greg

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 03:09 AM

I hooked my brick up and it seemed to work - at least I was able to flash the LEDs. I didn't do much more than that with it at this time but it didn't crash my netduino.

#9 Derek

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 07:57 PM

I'm going to try again as soon as I get a chance. I was trying to get the brick led to turn on and off in response to brick switch's input. I modified the netduino onboard led+switch code using the proper input and output pins as a first attempt to step into using the "real" pins.

#10 greg

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 08:09 PM

I'm going to try again as soon as I get a chance. I was trying to get the brick led to turn on and off in response to brick switch's input. I modified the netduino onboard led+switch code using the proper input and output pins as a first attempt to step into using the "real" pins.


Seems to work fine. My only gripe about the brick is separating all the sensors - dremel with a cutoff wheel will take care of that though.




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