I won't be able to confirm until I can test with the actual SL Ethernet module.
All I can say is that I just took a look with another SPI Ethernet module (http://www.futurlec...._Ethernet.shtml) and it fits between the two acrylic plates.
-Fabien.
Nwazet Go Pro Kit
Started by Fabien Royer, Oct 08 2012 06:36 PM
39 replies to this topic
#21
Fabien Royer
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#22
Bertrand Le Roy
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Posted 09 October 2012 - 11:45 PM
one thing that I possible could live without, or with other design.. is that huuge knob for the potmeter. What were you thinking guys??
That knob is gorgeous and feels great.
#23
Fabien Royer
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Posted 09 October 2012 - 11:56 PM
What were you thinking guys?
The heavy metal knob introduces a bit of inertia and provides a great natural 'force feedback' to the user, which translates into a much finer control on the input.
So, what were we thinking?
We were thinking about building a quality piece, paying attention to all details, big and small
Cheers,
-Fabien.
#24
Lunddahl
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Posted 10 October 2012 - 08:13 AM
We were thinking about building a quality piece, paying attention to all details, big and small
Nice, then change it to a rotary encoder, or were you not thinking that far :-)
- Ulrik
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#25
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Posted 10 October 2012 - 09:21 AM
Nice, then change it to a rotary encoder, or were you not thinking that far :-)
well, that we should blame on the module devs, but, rotary encoders, which rotary encoders is ok to use?, is all rotary encoders so one can see which direction it is turned?, can one read it's position when you turn on the module?
I was planning to buy these: http://www.ebay.com/...S-/290598955713
But I guess they are too simple?, I have at the moment absolutely no knowledge about encoders like this..
I have read about them here: http://en.wikipedia..../Rotary_encoder but are all made like this?, if that's the case it would be avesome with things like this instead of an potmeter, although an potmeter is easier to use for simple things.
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#26
neslekkim
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Posted 10 October 2012 - 09:23 AM
The heavy metal knob introduces a bit of inertia and provides a great natural 'force feedback' to the user, which translates into a much finer control on the input.
So, what were we thinking?
We were thinking about building a quality piece, paying attention to all details, big and small
At least it's not chromed
I thought it was an big big thing on top of the plate, but when the breadboards are populated it might not look that huge.
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Asbjørn
#27
neslekkim
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Posted 10 October 2012 - 09:30 AM
I won't be able to confirm until I can test with the actual SL Ethernet module.
All I can say is that I just took a look with another SPI Ethernet module (http://www.futurlec...._Ethernet.shtml) and it fits between the two acrylic plates.
-Fabien.
It would be awesome if there where ready made place and holes for the SL Ethernet module, so one could get it in there, and stick the ethernetcable from the side like the powercable and ethernet cable.
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Asbjørn
#28
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Posted 10 October 2012 - 04:04 PM
Hi Ulrik,
A rotary encoder would also be cool. We wanted to have a quality potentiometer module (which stopped at the low and high ends) for Netduino Go. Since the module's MCU can track fast interrupts...there's absolutely no reason we shouldn't have a rotary encoder module at some point too
Chris
Nice, then change it to a rotary encoder, or were you not thinking that far :-)
A rotary encoder would also be cool. We wanted to have a quality potentiometer module (which stopped at the low and high ends) for Netduino Go. Since the module's MCU can track fast interrupts...there's absolutely no reason we shouldn't have a rotary encoder module at some point too
Chris
#29
JerseyTechGuy
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Posted 10 October 2012 - 06:24 PM
the thing is i don't like board layout. It looks bad to me. I like apple designed board layout for Fabien.
Just curious... and noticing a trend... does Supra ever have anything positive to say in any thread?
But I digress.Would be cool if this was available on something like Ponoko so you could order your own in any material you like. Any thoughts on setting something like that up?
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#30
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Posted 10 October 2012 - 07:34 PM
Looking good like the rest of the Nwazet kit. Would be nice to see an EU distributor.For more details, check out the product page.
Regards,
Mark
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#31
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Posted 10 October 2012 - 07:36 PM
If you don't like it then don't buy it but at least take the time to appreciate the product for what it is and the hard work that has been put in to it.HHHMMMnnn That cost me around US$250 + $$(Dymo labels) total around $US300
Regards,
Mark
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#32
Lunddahl
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Posted 11 October 2012 - 01:48 AM
well, that we should blame on the module devs, but, rotary encoders, which rotary encoders is ok to use?, is all rotary encoders so one can see which direction it is turned?, can one read it's position when you turn on the module?
I was planning to buy these: http://www.ebay.com/...S-/290598955713
But I guess they are too simple?, I have at the moment absolutely no knowledge about encoders like this..
I have read about them here: http://en.wikipedia..../Rotary_encoder but are all made like this?, if that's the case it would be avesome with things like this instead of an potmeter, although an potmeter is easier to use for simple things.
From the Wikipedia article:
here are two main types: absolute and incremental (relative). The output of absolute encoders indicates the current position of the shaft, making them angle transducers. The output of incremental encoders provides information about the motion of the shaft, which is typically further processed elsewhere into information such as speed, distance, and position.
The one you are looking at is the incremental type, uses 4 pins for 2 for grey code, 1 for pushdown and one for ground, it has 20 clicks per rotation, and the gray code changes for every click.
This is the type of encoder you would normally use for a simple input control, from the programmers side you will probarly use a library that gives you an interrupt every time the encoder changes it's state, the interupt's parameter will be either TurnedLeft, TurnedRight, ButtonPressed or ButtonReleased.
If you want to know the position, you will have to use an absolute type, this somewhat a more advanced topic :-) and they are not normally used as HID's
- Ulrik
#33
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Posted 11 October 2012 - 09:12 AM
ah, thanks!
Does rotary encoders exist in versions where there are no "clicks", i'm trying to find out what to use as an paddle control for games like arkanoid..
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#34
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Posted 11 October 2012 - 09:20 AM
There are those who barely click. I used a few in this video:ah, thanks!
Does rotary encoders exist in versions where there are no "clicks", i'm trying to find out what to use as an paddle control for games like arkanoid..
"Fact that I'm a moderator doesn't make me an expert in things." Stefan, the eternal newb!
My .NETMF projects: .NETMF Toolbox / Gadgeteer Light / Some PCB designs
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#35
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Posted 22 October 2012 - 08:00 PM
Looking good like the rest of the Nwazet kit. Would be nice to see an EU distributor.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark,
We looked for EU distributors early on when we launched our Go! modules. Unfortunately, UK distributors who have responded so far wanted a very high cut for their services, to the extent where it was not sustainable for us. Outside of the UK, I would recommend checking out http://shop.microfra...gue.aspx/nwazet who resells Nwazet products in the EU and asking them for the Nwazet Go Pro kit.
I hope this helps.
Cheers,
-Fabien.
#36
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Posted 23 October 2012 - 06:05 AM
Hi Mark,
We looked for EU distributors early on when we launched our Go! modules. Unfortunately, UK distributors who have responded so far wanted a very high cut for their services, to the extent where it was not sustainable for us. Outside of the UK, I would recommend checking out http://shop.microfra...gue.aspx/nwazet who resells Nwazet products in the EU and asking them for the Nwazet Go Pro kit.
I hope this helps.
Cheers,
-Fabien.
The only problem about shop.microframework.eu is that they are very, very slow. Bought from them twice:
The first time, it would probadly have been faster to just buy all the stuff at nwazet... waiting for more than two weeks!!
Second time took about 6 days... where as 3-4 was spent, waiting on the packet to be shipped. It was packed and stuff, just not shipped.
Honestly, I doubt that I would use them again... the have good boxes through...
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#37
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Posted 23 October 2012 - 06:43 AM
Fabien,We looked for EU distributors early on when we launched our Go! modules. Unfortunately, UK distributors who have responded so far wanted a very high cut for their services, to the extent where it was not sustainable for us. Outside of the UK, I would recommend checking out http://shop.microfra...gue.aspx/nwazet who resells Nwazet products in the EU and asking them for the Nwazet Go Pro kit.
Thanks for the update - I'll have a look later (the corporate proxy does not like the site). I'm not too worried about UK or not, just need to find one in the EU.
Regards,
Mark
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#38
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Posted 23 October 2012 - 06:04 PM
The only problem about shop.microframework.eu is that they are very, very slow. Bought from them twice:
The first time, it would probadly have been faster to just buy all the stuff at nwazet... waiting for more than two weeks!!
Second time took about 6 days... where as 3-4 was spent, waiting on the packet to be shipped. It was packed and stuff, just not shipped.
Honestly, I doubt that I would use them again... the have good boxes through...
As someone looking for a distributor in the EU, thats good information to have. Is there someone you'd like to see carry modules?
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#39
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Posted 01 November 2012 - 07:30 PM
Got my Go Pro plates kit yesterday, had it all assembled in less than an hour. Very nice, great quality, looks very professional. My only comment is about the knob - it's a little loose on the shaft so it resulted in a slightly lop-sided motion when turned. I solved this by wrapping two turns of scotch tape around the shaft before sliding the knob onto it - it then lines up nicely and turns smoothly without the slight off-center wobble.
#40
Fabien Royer
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Posted 01 November 2012 - 11:32 PM
Hi Mattster,
Thanks for the feedback and I'm glad you like the kit
About the knob: a good way to ensure that the knob doesn't wobble is to let it rest flat on the top board before securing it to the shaft. Then, as you tighten the screw against the pot's shaft, gently push down on the dome of the knob. That method has worked well for me so far, but a bit of tape works too.
Cheers,
-Fabien.
About the knob: a good way to ensure that the knob doesn't wobble is to let it rest flat on the top board before securing it to the shaft. Then, as you tighten the screw against the pot's shaft, gently push down on the dome of the knob. That method has worked well for me so far, but a bit of tape works too.
Cheers,
-Fabien.
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