Powering the Netduino Go! with a Lipo
#1
Posted 22 April 2012 - 10:30 AM
For this I used these breakout boards from Sparkfun:
- Power Cell - LiPo Charger/Booster
- USB MicroB Plug Breakout Board
And of course a Polymer Lithium Ion Battery.
DSCN2634.JPG 290.08KB 160 downloads
- Mattster likes this
My .NETMF projects: .NETMF Toolbox / Gadgeteer Light / Some PCB designs
#2
Posted 22 April 2012 - 12:39 PM
LiPo Booster...sounds like the opposite of LiPo Suction
Seriously though, what is the purpose/function of the charger/booster?
Also, tthat lexan-like platter beneath it all with bunch of holes seems very handy, wonder where you got that - made it yourself?
#3
Posted 22 April 2012 - 12:53 PM
The lipo outputs 3.7VSeriously though, what is the purpose/function of the charger/booster?
The Netduino Go requests 5V
The Booster-part takes care of this; it converts 3.7V to 5V (Ohms law, just changes the amps I suppose)
The charger-part is the micro USB socket on the bottom of the breakout, it charges the lipo when connected to USB
I know, they're awesome, aren't they? Got it at http://www.nwazet.co...unting-solutionAlso, tthat lexan-like platter beneath it all with bunch of holes seems very handy, wonder where you got that - made it yourself?
My .NETMF projects: .NETMF Toolbox / Gadgeteer Light / Some PCB designs
#4
Posted 23 April 2012 - 12:25 AM
#5
Posted 23 April 2012 - 07:08 PM
I see, at least I ought to get me one of those hole platters but I'll probably go for something more old fashioned like masonite wood - lexan means ESD to me...
I quite like the Nwazet mounting plates, although Ive found that it helps to buy a few of the smaller plates to cluster the small modules in more custom configurations, when used in conjunction with the large plate. The large plate is a bit limited in the places you can succesfully mount the small modules.
The photo on the Nwazet website is a tiiiiny bit deceptive imho - if you look carefully at the two items on the top - the shieldbase isnt mounted to the large plate, it needed a small plate as an intermediary. The relay module is also a different size than the other small modules, which themselves wouldnt be mountable up there (no compatible hole combinations)
Having said that though, buying the smaller plates, and mounting the modules on those, and then mounting those onto the large plate with standoffs gives you a great deal more options - you have considerably more ways to line up the mounting holes - a lot more freedom.
So, if you get the large plate, be sure to grab 2-3 of the small plates too - and some standoffs if you dont have any available - you wont regret it
Overall I am am very happy with the mounting plates - and basically everything I've ordered from nwazet so far. I seem to be accumulating their stickers. (I wish there were equivalent Netduino Go!/Secret Labs stickers!)
I also wish they sold the mounting plates on amazon, where I get the free shipping
#6
Posted 23 April 2012 - 07:15 PM
The photo on the Nwazet website is a tiiiiny bit deceptive imho - if you look carefully at the two items on the top - the shieldbase isnt mounted to the large plate, it needed a small plate as an intermediary.
I ran into that problem this weekend. Made a very ugly adapter out of some foam core board. I have to order a few of the small plats I guess.
I also wanted to mount some GHI LEDs and other misc parts, but ran out of places to mount them.
-Eric
#7
Posted 23 April 2012 - 07:33 PM
Attached Files
#8
Posted 23 April 2012 - 07:47 PM
Hi there. Bertrand here. I'm the guy who designed the plates, and they are imperfect, as there was stuff we didn't know when we cut them. There will be improvements on future batches, but I'd like our early customers to not be limited nonetheless.
Here's what I did on my own prototypes, which were actually from smaller and earlier batches that had less holes than the ones you have: drill more holes.
About the shield base, yes I've been using a small plate as an adapter of sorts, but it's not the only way. It's quite easy to add new holes with a Dremel tool if you mark the spot carefully first. I'm attaching a template that you can print to the right dimensions that has additional holes for the relay and shield base (shield base goes to the right of the go; is that an acceptable position?). Let me know what you think.
I didnt mean to sound critical.. I love the plates. In fact, I just ordered 3 more not 5 minutes ago (along with another touch screen and 30cm cable!)
So drilling the plates works well? I was going to try that, but I was afraid of big chips along the edges, and I didnt want to ruin the beatiful plate!
#9
Posted 23 April 2012 - 07:58 PM
So drilling the plates works well? I was going to try that, but I was afraid of big chips along the edges, and I didnt want to ruin the beatiful plate!
No, it works beautifully. Wear safety goggles for chips but otherwise it should be pretty clean. That acrylic is fairly soft.
#10
Posted 25 April 2012 - 03:39 PM
#11
Posted 27 April 2012 - 08:32 AM
See the attached picture. I connected a 3.7V lipo battery to the Netduino Go! for my ubrella project.
For this I used these breakout boards from Sparkfun:
- Power Cell - LiPo Charger/Booster
- USB MicroB Plug Breakout Board
And of course a Polymer Lithium Ion Battery.
DSCN2634.JPG 290.08KB 160 downloads
Nicely done. I am using a similar setup for Pandora's Box, except I am wired into the protoshield for providing power. In order to charge my unit, I spliced into the FTDI card because this is the only USB port exposed to the end user for both charging and communication with the windows application. I have a 3700 mah LiPo. Takes a couple hours to charge fully, but can run Pandora's box for about 12 hours.
#12
Posted 27 April 2012 - 09:52 AM
My .NETMF projects: .NETMF Toolbox / Gadgeteer Light / Some PCB designs
#13
Posted 16 May 2012 - 11:22 AM
No, it works beautifully. Wear safety goggles for chips but otherwise it should be pretty clean. That acrylic is fairly soft.
I am running into the same issues. Would it be possible to have a board that has a large matrix of concentric holes to make the mounting of the different size GO modules much easier?
Also for drilling holes I have found that using a sharpie pen (not a marker) you can lay the GO board on the plastic, and the sharpie pen has such a long and narrow tip, you can draw perfect guide markers for drilling.
DB Lection
#14
Posted 16 May 2012 - 11:28 AM
You mean like the Tamiya base plate?I am running into the same issues. Would it be possible to have a board that has a large matrix of concentric holes to make the mounting of the different size GO modules much easier?
Regards,
Mark
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#15
Posted 08 June 2012 - 11:45 PM
Overall I am am very happy with the mounting plates - and basically everything I've ordered from nwazet so far. I seem to be accumulating their stickers. (I wish there were equivalent Netduino Go!/Secret Labs stickers!)
I love the Nwazet plates as well but I never got Nwazet stickers with my orders.
#17
Posted 21 June 2012 - 05:13 PM
Really!? I'll have to remedy that with twice the amount of stickers on your next order!
Cheers,
-Fabien.
That sounds great
#18
Posted 03 July 2012 - 06:04 PM
#19
Posted 03 July 2012 - 07:18 PM
I believe so, but you can better ask sparkfun, who made the boardHi Stefan, does that circuit that you have connected to the LiPo keep it from falling under 3v and damaging the battery?
My .NETMF projects: .NETMF Toolbox / Gadgeteer Light / Some PCB designs
#20
Posted 03 July 2012 - 08:51 PM
I believe so, but you can better ask sparkfun, who made the board
Will do The reason I asked is because I have radio control planes with brushless motors and the ESC in them cuts the power when it reaches certain threshold, aprox. 3.15 volts per cell (4.2v per cell fully charged) or 75% of remaining voltage to avoid damaging the LiPo battery pack.
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