Soldering Techniques For Small Components
#1
Posted 14 July 2011 - 04:33 PM
#2
Posted 14 July 2011 - 05:14 PM
#3
Posted 14 July 2011 - 05:20 PM
#4
Posted 14 July 2011 - 06:14 PM
- Stuart Crawshaw likes this
#5
Posted 14 July 2011 - 07:35 PM
Hello Everybody,
General question to go out ot everyone regarding Soldering Techniques....
When soldering small components, for example: the wires on to the pins of a DS1820 sensor, how do you go about this?
Ill also open this question up to everyone to share any other soldering Techniques they use when soldering other things too!
Thanks again guys, Cant wait to see how you get yours done!
--------
Stuart.
I'll add to what Mario said.
A *good* quality iron makes a world of difference. For many, many years I just used a cheap $10 iron from Radio Shack. About 6 months ago I finally broke down and bought a good, quality Weller adjustable iron. What a world of difference it made.
I can now easily solder things big and small without having to worrying about cooking the small things, or spend 10 minutes trying to get the big things to heat up.
A Panavise and helping hands help a bunch too.
If your soldering two wires together, or a wire to a component (not going into a circuit board), the helping hands come in handy. Apply a little bit of flux to the two pieces, touch the iron to them, then apply the solder. 1-2 seconds should be enough and with the flux, all the solder will flow around the joint very nicely.
For soldering components to a circuit board, additional flux is rarely needed (the solder contains flux).
Make sure you leave a large blob of solder on your tip when you are done soldering to protect the tip against oxidation.
Oh, and practice, practice, practice :-)
-dan
- Stuart Crawshaw likes this
#6
Posted 15 July 2011 - 03:54 AM
I didn't want to make ad, but totally agree. In our lab we have only Weller, adj or not, they're great.A *good* quality iron makes a world of difference. For many, many years I just used a cheap $10 iron from Radio Shack. About 6 months ago I finally broke down and bought a good, quality Weller adjustable iron. What a world of difference it made.
Also agree. In the post above I called "grip" 'cos I didn't know how you call them.A Panavise and helping hands help a bunch too.
Thank you so much Dan, I agree at 100%.
I'd add that you may need a desoldering pump.
Cheers
- Stuart Crawshaw likes this
#7
Posted 15 July 2011 - 05:43 AM
Cannot comment on that particular iron but I have just bought a thermostatically controlled iron and it is a far better tool. It cost 5 times what the old one did but I am finding it a lot easier to get good results. I wish I had done it years ago.A *good* quality iron makes a world of difference. For many, many years I just used a cheap $10 iron from Radio Shack. About 6 months ago I finally broke down and bought a good, quality Weller adjustable iron. What a world of difference it made.
By the way, Sparkfun have a tutorial on soldering on their web site.
Mario mentioned the finish should be nice and shinny and that is true for the solder I buy but I know there is some solder on the market which is advertised as having a dull matt finish.
Hope this helps,
Mark
- Stuart Crawshaw likes this
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#8
Posted 15 July 2011 - 08:37 AM
#9
Posted 15 July 2011 - 09:02 AM
That's true indeed.Especially since the croc-clips would act as a kind of heat shunt to protect the component being soldered.
Consider that any heat sink close to the soldering point will cool the iron temperature. That could give a bad melting and a matt/crystalled result. Along this way, a regulated iron guarantee always a good soldering.
Cheers
- Stuart Crawshaw likes this
#10
Posted 15 July 2011 - 09:06 AM
That's true indeed.
Consider that any heat sink close to the soldering point will cool the iron temperature. That could give a bad melting and a matt/crystalled result. Along this way, a regulated iron guarantee always a good soldering.
Cheers
Thanks for the heads up.
Im currently using a variable temperature gas soldering iron, it seems to do the job quite well. I manage the tip temperature with an infrared thermometer.
#11
Posted 18 July 2011 - 06:20 PM
Cannot comment on that particular iron but I have just bought a thermostatically controlled iron and it is a far better tool. It cost 5 times what the old one did but I am finding it a lot easier to get good results. I wish I had done it years ago.
By the way, Sparkfun have a tutorial on soldering on their web site.
Mario mentioned the finish should be nice and shinny and that is true for the solder I buy but I know there is some solder on the market which is advertised as having a dull matt finish.
Hope this helps,
Mark
Thanks for point that out Mark! If your using 60/40 lead/tin and its got a matte finish, then you have a bad/cold solder joint. 60/40 is the only thing I have experience with.
-dan
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